Oregon’s emergence as a premier wine region is rooted in clones – specifically, finding the right clones that would thrive in Oregon’s climate and soils. While Oregon’s wine industry started taking off in the 1960s and ‘70s, it dates back a century earlier. The first grapes were planted in Oregon in the mid-1800s, before Oregon was even a state (that happened in 1859). Oregon’s first official winery was Valley View Winery, established in 1850 in Jacksonville in what is now the Applegate Valley AVA, nested inside the Rogue Valley AVA. Historical records suggest that both seeds and cuttings were used to grow the first grapes in Oregon, although the first wines were predominantly made from fruits other than grapes.
In 1961, a Roseburg-area vintner named Richard Sommer planted the first known Pinot Noir in Oregon from cuttings brought into the state in 1959. Pinot Noir was introduced to the Willamette Valley in 1965 when pioneering winemaker David Lett brought in a carload of the Wädenswil 1A clone from the University of California, Davis, which imported it from Switzerland. In the 1970s the Pommard clone from Burgundy, France, was introduced to the state. (Pommard was the dominant clone grown in California.)
Oregon makes its mark
Some historians trace Oregon’s dramatic rise in respect within the wine world to the French Wine Olympics of 1979, when a Pinot Noir made by Lett of Eyrie Vineyards was rated the top Pinot Noir in the competition. The French wine community was stunned and Oregon’s reputation for outstanding Pinot Noir was born.
Another significant development in Oregon winemaking came in the mid-1980s through the combined efforts by a professor of enology at Oregon State University, Dr. David Heatherbell, and David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyard. They teamed up to persuade a viticultural researcher at the University of Dijon in France, Dr. Raymond Bernard, to send them cuttings. The first set arrived in 1984 at Heatherbell’s behest and the second set was shipped in 1988 following a trip to France by Adelsheim. The cuttings arrived at Oregon State University in a box with “Dijon” in the return address and the name stuck. Their less romantic names are 113, 114, 115, 667 and 777. (Chardonnay clones are also part of the Dijon family.) Today there are 43 certified Dijon clones although only about 15 are in wide use.
Bernard’s research was devoted to “clonal selection,” designed to promote healthy vines and, subsequently, better quality wine. Bernard and his colleagues would take buds from vines that showed no signs of rot or disease and create so-called “mother” vines which were then used to establish new, healthy vineyards. The Dijon clones were embraced by Oregon wineries looking for early ripening grapes because of the shorter growing season here. According to Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible, the widespread adoption of Dijon clones was a key driver behind the vast improvement in Oregon wine in the 2000s. Today Dijon clones are the most widely planted in Oregon, along with Pommard and Wädensvil.
Clones at King Estate
King Estate has 29 different clones in the vineyard – 18 are Pinot Noir and the remaining 11 are various whites. Of King Estate’s 535 planted acres (including our Pfeiffer Vineyard), about two-thirds are Pinot Gris and one-third Pinot Noir with a few acres of others mixed in, primarily Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Pinot Gris clones at King Estate are mostly the French clones 146 and 152 with a smattering of clone 3. White wine clones tend to get less attention. Director of Viticulture Ray Nuclo speculates that may be due to a prevailing assumption that red wines are more complex and interesting, although he takes issue with that assessment. Nevertheless it’s indisputable that white wine clones are largely neglected in the literature.
Each clone has a unique personality and its own story to tell. The differences may be subtle, but they definitely influence winemaking decisions – from how well the grape does in the vineyard to what it contributes to the wine in the bottle. Some clones are known for their elegance and aromatics but yields may be unpredictable from year to year or site to site. For example, a couple of clones (Mount Eden and 943) have smaller berries which translate into a high skin-to-juice ratio. Not only does that give the wine more color, but it allows more tannins to be released which in turn influences the wine’s texture, structure and ability to age well. The Dijon clones ripen early which works well in our cool, high-altitude climate.
The Pinot Gris clones have small but significant differences. Clone 146 ripens earlier than 152. During harvest, it helps to have staggered ripening times so everything doesn’t have to be picked at once. Clone 152 crops a bit heavier, meaning yields in blocks planted with 152 are higher.
Single clone wines are somewhat rare. Most wines are made from a blend that is designed to bring out the best in each clonal variety to achieve the most balanced and appealing wine. There are a couple of exceptions: Blackjack Pinot Noir made from Dijon clone 777, and Just Shy Pinot Noir from clone 113. With intense color, strong aromatics and complex black fruit flavors, the 777 clone can be powerful, almost like a Cabernet Sauvignon. Clone 113 is considered most elegant of the Dijon clones although the yield and quality can vary from year to year.
With our wide variety of clones, our winemakers have more options when it comes to blending or making a single-clone wine. Even a deep dive into the world of clones only skims the surface, reminding us why wine is endlessly fascinating and always has something to teach the curious. For those ready to learn, wine awaits.
- Many thanks to “The Prince of Pinot” whose writings were an invaluable source of information.
