Begin a conversation about Merlot and the 2004 movie “Sideways” inevitably comes up. “It was unfairly maligned in a movie and not even by an expert but by a fictional character,” says Associate Winemaker Matt Danner. “It was just a throwaway line in a movie.” Throwaway, but memorable. The character, Miles, was a fan of Pinot Noir, which experienced an immediate jump in sales. (His disdain for Merlot had nothing to do with the wine itself but was due to the fact that it was his ex-wife’s favorite.) While Merlot suffered a slight decline as a result, it’s still among the most popular reds, after Cabernet Sauvignon and vying with Pinot Noir for second.
“Good Merlot starts in the vineyard,” Matt says. Weinbau Vineyard is blessed with well-draining soils that make the vines struggle for nutrients. Additionally, growers limit yields to produce fewer clusters. These practices help focus the plant’s energy on grape development, resulting in fruit with robust, concentrated flavors. Merlot’s smaller berries with thicker skins mean its tannins are higher than Pinot Noir (but lower than Cabernet Sauvignon). Unlike the delicate Pinot Noir, Merlot “stands up to a firm hand” in winemaking, Matt notes, including spending more time in barrel.
Weinbau Vineyard was established in 1981 along the Columbia River in what is now the Wahluke Slope AVA. Initially it was planted with cool climate grapes like Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay before Bordeaux and Rhône varietals including Merlot were added. In the Bordeaux region of France where it has been grown for centuries, Merlot is considered a heritage variety. Merlot started gaining popularity in Washington in the 1990s as the state’s reputation for producing full-bodied red wines grew. The vineyard is in a warm region but, with its northern location, has a later spring and thus a later growing season. Overall moderate temperatures help elongate hang time with ideal ripening conditions.
From a warm vintage marked by ideal harvest conditions, this wine starts out with pleasing aromatics that are characteristic of Merlot – ripe plum, cocoa powder, blackberry, tobacco leaves, anise, rose petal, leather and anise. Up front, dark fruit and spice flavors mingle with chewy tannins as roundness builds on the midpalate, revealing notes of bramble, sweet oak and clove. Harmonized acidity shows on the finish that lingers generously.
Merlot holds its own with richer foods like beef bolognese, ribeye or prime rib. Just in time for Valentine’s Day, it pairs well with dark chocolate, too. “What I look for is a wine that keeps evolving even after you’ve tasted it,” Matt says. With its layers and complexity, Merlot delivers. That’s why, unlike the fictional Miles, Matt is a big fan of the magnificent Merlot.
